14 April - Castle Ridge

Having studied for a few days since coming back from Gairloch it was time for another day out. My dad and I decided on Castle Ridge, it was recently reported to be in summer condition and the forecast for Thursday was not bad (at least in the afternoon).

The cloud base of 200m when we set off from the North Face carpark was not encouraging but the mist seemed to lift with us as we walked towards the CIC hut and we reached the bottom of the route 1.5 hours later.

The wet north face of Ben Nevis, not much snow left.

We crossed the Allt a' Mhuillin and headed straight up a scree rake emerging from a gully, then a diagonal grassy rake to reach the point where the gullies dropping from the left and right of the castle meet. Here we had to cross a snow patch, then a bergshrund of sorts, before traversing out onto the crest of the ridge. The rocks were so wet and slippey, and the cloud so thick that at this point we considered turning round. However on reaching the crest of the ridge the scrambling looked friendly and easy so we carried on - a positive attitude goes a long way in Scotland!

Castle Ridge from just below the CIC hut. The snow patch with the bergshrund is visible middle left.

We didn't find the route description we had very useful. Shortly after we joined the ridge we came across a steep step overlooking an open corner which dropped into the gully on the left. The obvious way up was a steep slightly wet corner which gave great climbing at Mod/Diff standard. The guide didn't mention this at all, perhaps there was an easier way, but we couldn't find it. The ridge then leans back a bit, giving easy Grade 1/2 scrambling before you get to the crux, again not well described by our guide. We followed the crampon scratches up behind a large block, then diagonally rightwards across a cracked slab and followed a ledge rightwards. We then made an exposed step onto a block and then went up a chimney past a rusty peg - this was the best bit - steep and very exposed scrambling on huge holds. After this there is a short and awkward chimney before the ridge flattens and narrows to the plateau. 

Above the crux step, final chimney to come.

The (awkward) final chimney.

All in all a great route, the vast majority is grade 1/2 scrambling with little exposure due to the broadness of the ridge. The moderate grade comes from the two steep sections which are only about 15m long, but quite exposed. The rock on the crest was quite dry despite the lack of friction lower down. We pitched two bits - the steep corner low down and the crux, and I was glad of the rope. Perhaps if the rock was drier it would feel ok without.

7.5 hours round trip and another route ticked off!